Two weeks in Spain

I am currently in Spain for two weeks. The weather is usually very nice in the Costa Blanca around Christmas. There is only one problem, no boulders, so I have to fumble with a rope and quickdraws. Half way down a route the juice is gone so it is a struggle. 

Today we were in Pinos a climbing area with short powerful routes so the climbing feels more natural to me. It is located on a hill with a beautiful view on the Penon de Ifach.

I am psyched to work on a new project of which you can find some pictures below.

Fontainebleau: Past and Present

Most of my early childhood holidays were spent in Fontainebleau.

I have very fond memories of those holidays which all came back very vividly after watching the compilation movie below of “little me” bouldering in the forest.

Summer and winter, too hot and too cold we were always there. Spending hours at just one boulder because my dad had a project and I brushed his holds.

Now, 10 years later, we are spending time at the same boulders, because I have my projects and the same holds need to be cleaned. Nothing much has changed.

Dutch Youth championship Lead - 2014

Yesterday was the Dutch Youth Lead championship in Sittard. I was very much looking forward to this day especially since Youth Lead 4 went so well.

Being ranked 3^rd in the overall qualifications I thought it would not be a problem to climb the semi-final and get through to the finals. 

However, it turned out very differently than I anticipated. The semi-final route was not my style, I completely screwed up and ended 7^th in the semi’s. Not good enough for a place in the finals. Too bad, I would have loved to try the final route since it looked very nice.

Congratulations to Zeno, Don and Leto.

Youth Lead 4

 

Last week was Youth Lead 4 in Eindhoven. The routes were really nice, I enjoyed climbing them. The qualifications went very well. I was the only one to top both routes. The final route also went well I finished second. I was really happy with the result. It was enough to safeguard my third place in the overall ranking. First time on the podium for lead! Maybe the strength training of Jörg is already paying off. Looking forward to the Dutch Youth Championships on November 9.

Youth Lead 3

Yesterday was Youth Lead 3 in Neoliet Tilburg. The qualifications went really well. I topped both routes. Sadly enough I made a mistake in the finals and ended as 5^th. Well everybody makes mistakes, including my hair dresser ;-). 

Anyway, I had a great day. It was nice meeting all my climbing friends again, the atmosphere was good, the routes were nicely set, thumbs up for the organizers.

Tough weekend

Very tough weekend! Friday was DB9 a friendly boulder match in my local gym Delfts Bleau. Lots of nice people, great boulders and a friendly atmosphere. I finished 14^th and was happy with that score. Saturday and Sunday were spend setting boulders in the soon to open boulder gym called Bolder in Rotterdam. I really like creating new problems. We got complete freedom in what we wanted to build and I hope the boulders I created will be fancied by other people. This long weekend on plastic was a bit too much for the skin; I will need some days of rest now.

Regional Youth Boulder Cup 1st qualification.

Last Saturday was the first qualification round out of four for the regional Youth Boulder Cup organized by “De Klimmuur”. This one was in Klimmuur Centraal close to the central station in Amsterdam. There were not a lot of competitors but it was enjoyable with nice boulders. Although I participated mainly just for fun I was pleased to find out that I became first of my category (boys, 13 till 17 years old) which I didn’t expect given the fact that I was one of the youngest participants in this category. I’m already looking forward to the next qualification which will be closer to home in Klimmuur De Uithof, The Hague on November 15, hopefully with more participants.

New Stuff from the sponsors

Yesterday was supposed to be a rest day. But a big box of goodies arrived from my new sponsors, Nihil and Mad Rock. 
So I had to go to the gym to test the new beautiful Nihil climbing clothes and the Mad Rock Shark 2.0. 

After two hours of bouldering I got used to the new shoes. They are great for toohooks. The heelhook takes a bit more time to get used to.

I can not wait to go outside and try them on real rock. 

A review of the Shark can be found on SIKED

Bouldering in Silvretta

Rubber Gun, 7a, Sector Palm Beach, Silvretta

Part of my summer holiday was spend bouldering in Silvretta. 

The weather wasn't really great but we had enough good days to hit the boulders. 

The rock is very sharp, full of crystals and it hurts. The grading is often a bit strange, never did so many 7th grade boulders in one holiday.

Quite a few boulders have beautiful lines but you have to search a bit between the multitude of big blocks to find them.

Some additional pictures can be found via this LINK.

About me:

Lencho Palstra

DOB: 19-06-2000

POB: Leeds

Nationality: Dutch

My biggest passion is rock climbing. When I was three years old my parents took me to Fontainebleau and I was immediately hooked.

I spend most of my free time in the climbing gym and almost every holiday is dedicated to bouldering or rock climbing.

This blog is a way to express myself, my passion for climbing and to share my climbing adventures with you.

I hope you enjoy reading it.