Lost Tape

I recently realised that I still had a Rocklands movie which I hadn't posted yet. It was shot during the last couple of days in the Rocklands which I mainly spend in the excellent sector the Coop. In this sector I climbed some really nice boulders of which Distance 7C was the best. I also found a new line there which is really nice to climb:Passing through time and is about 6C+. The movie also contains some footage of a nice (long) boulder in the Riverside section: Witness the weakness.
Enjoy!

Rocklands, New Lines and Old Problems

This is my fourth time in Rocklands and it is sometimes difficult to motivate myself to try the same problems again. I have figured out that I also like creating new lines or alternative top-outs.

While warming up in 8 Day rain in Save Bushy Cracks, a boulder close to the Scorpion boulder, I found an interesting alternative top-out.  I looked like it had not been done before as I had to really brush and clean the holds. At first the line looked difficult and impossible for me. However, after some tries and figuring out different beta, all moves looked doable. It took me a while to link them all together but the end result feels like a really nice line, quite technical and balancy on a sloopy lip. The grade feels to me like a 7A+.

It has been really dry in Rocklands. There is almost no water in the Riverside area. This opens up possibilities for new problems that otherwise would give you wet feet at the start. Hence, I found a nice prow at the warm-up boulders in Riverside. The sit-start is about 7A and stand-start 6B-ish.

And then there is this one problem that I have been working in for quite some time. I tried it in 2015 and couldn’t do a single move. I tried it in 2016 and all moves felt really hard. This year with different beta the problem came within my reach. I struggled for 5 sessions to perfect all the moves and succeeded in finally topping White Mazda Clan. I am happy that despite not being in top form I can still do a 7C+.

The boulders described above can be seen in the movie below.