This is my
fourth time in Rocklands and it is sometimes difficult to motivate myself to
try the same problems again. I have figured out that I also like creating new lines
or alternative top-outs.
While
warming up in 8 Day rain in Save Bushy Cracks, a boulder close to the Scorpion
boulder, I found an interesting alternative top-out. I looked like it had not been done before as I
had to really brush and clean the holds. At first the line looked difficult and
impossible for me. However, after some tries and figuring out different beta,
all moves looked doable. It took me a while to link them all together but the
end result feels like a really nice line, quite technical and balancy on a sloopy
lip. The grade feels to me like a 7A+.
It has been
really dry in Rocklands. There is almost no water in the Riverside area. This
opens up possibilities for new problems that otherwise would give you wet feet
at the start. Hence, I found a nice prow at the warm-up boulders in Riverside. The
sit-start is about 7A and stand-start 6B-ish.
And then
there is this one problem that I have been working in for quite some time. I
tried it in 2015 and couldn’t do a single move. I tried it in 2016 and all
moves felt really hard. This year with different beta the problem came within
my reach. I struggled for 5 sessions to perfect all the moves and succeeded in
finally topping White Mazda Clan. I am happy that despite not being in top form
I can still do a 7C+.
The boulders described above can be seen in the movie below.