Friday 18 August 2023

Sleeplessness, Week 6



Another week another 8A. This week had been filled with a lot of mixed emotions. This will also be the last blog I write from South Africa. I have one more week to go. 

Wednesday and Thursday were mainly resting. Thursday evening I went for a night session on The Wee Baby Shamus to see if I could finally get some links in or repeat the crux move. Unfortunately non of this happend. I got there super late but it was still unbearably hot. I kept slipping off off all the holds not making any progress.



Friday my stay at Alpha Exelsior ended. I had to move. Earlier in the trip I went and visited Nardouw. This is a newer sector with a lot of FA potential. Mario the owner of the land has a cabin that I decided to rent for my remaining nights. Arriving in the afternoon it was very hot. After some unpacking I decided to hit some boulders anyway. There where a couple right below my cabin. To have boulders within a 100m of the place your staying is kinda sick. I did some 7A boulders and did an FA of a 6A+.


Saturday some of my friends headed down to Witness the Sickness my first 8A. I came to support them and to hangout. Later in the day me and Jackson tried Throw Yourself Away Original (8A). After figuring out the top of the boulder We had a nice little send train again. Later in the day we headed up to Plateau and played around on some dynos.


Sunday I spend the day at the the Henhouse resting.



Monday Jackson and I had big plans to go up to 8 Day Rain and finish up some dyno projects. When we got to the boulders we did a quick warmup and tried The Flying Guitar Thief (8A) it’s a cool step up dyno that I tried a couple years ago. What’s hard about this dyno is that after the step up you have to shoot back a lot. After a couple of close tries I tore the biggest flapper of my climbing career and I had to call it early.



Tuesday we planned on going to a new sector called The Realm. With my flapper It wasn’t smart to do some. Climbing so I decided to rest and look at some flowers. It’s flower season in the Cederberg and it is a beautiful sight.


Wednesday I got to The Hen House to see what my friends had planned. We all felt a bit tired but decided to head to Kleinfontein. I wanted to give The Hatchling another go. Arriving at the boulders we all still felt pretty demotivated and tired. After listening to some tunes and gaining some sike we gave our projects a try. It all went pretty horrible so we decided to give some easier problems a try. I flashed A for Epic (7A).


After our shifty session in Kleinfontein we headed to Plateau to try some more easy problems. Jackson did Human Energy and Thomas did a nice little dyno. 


Next week I’ll be in the plane on my back to The Netherlands. I would not have thought that I’d have the feeling of wanting to go back home. But I’m happy to say that I do feel like going home. These long trips are both physically and Mentally exhausting. In the end we all remember the good times but it is also good to remember the though battles we fought here, even if they aren’t always boulders.


This weeks song is going to be:


K. Flay, Can’t Sleep


One more week, I hope to do something cool before I leave what that will be I’m not sure yet.

See y’all next week. And don’t forget, be nice, think twice and most importantly, crush some boulders.