Today is another rest day. After almost three weeks in
Rocklands the skin is getting thinner but on the same hand also tougher. The
sharp sandstone does not hurt so much anymore. I have experienced that my main
weakness while climbing in Rocklands is finger power. I need to learn to crimp
hard.
So far I am very pleased with the boulders I have done. I
also see some progress. I tried Crazy Leg, a very nice 7B at the beginning of
our trip and was completely thrown back on the big shoulder move to the left
side pull. A couple of days ago I tried it again and the boulder went down in
the second try. Crazy Leg is a great problem with a cool jump at the end.
Jumping is not really my weakness. I have done some very
nice dyno boulders: Lord Greystoke 7B, Three Musketeers 7B and the most
beautiful one of them all The Skink 7B. It felt so nice to stick the hold after
jumping for I don’t know how many times in the Skink.
We have by now visited all the major sectors in Rocklands and
I have mainly been focusing on climbing a lot of classic boulders and not so
much on spending a lot of time in difficult projects. But yesterday was a cold
day and time to hit a project. I managed to do Weichei which is my first 7C+. I
am really happy with this result. I used different beta for Weichei than most
people do. Having difficulty with the heel hook I used a high solid toe hook
which for me felt much better.
I have four climbing days left which I want to spend on
working in other projects. I sure need to come back next year because my list
of boulders I want to try is much longer than the couple of days left in this
beautiful place.
